{"id":739,"date":"2024-01-04T23:25:04","date_gmt":"2024-01-04T22:25:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/stage.lucienlemoine.com\/?p=739"},"modified":"2024-01-04T23:25:04","modified_gmt":"2024-01-04T22:25:04","slug":"fullness-of-wine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stage.lucienlemoine.com\/fr\/news\/2024\/fullness-of-wine\/","title":{"rendered":"Fullness of Wine"},"content":{"rendered":"

Andrew Jefford meets the Burgundy and Ch\u00e2teauneuf specialist Mounir Saouma…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Saouma cellar at Vieux Bouigard near Orange. Credit: Andrew Jefford<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI was born in 1967. That\u2019s what it says on the paper. But in reality I was born in 1867. They just put me in the Frigidaire and took me out again 100 years later.\u201d The time traveller is Mounir Saouma: one of the most original thinkers working in French fine wine today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He\u2019s obsessed with a return to past ways of working with wine \u2013 though he has nothing to do with the \u2018natural wine\u2019 movement, and indeed derides \u201cthe ayatollahs, the fanatics of everything\u201d who produce zero sulphur wines \u201cwhich stink of the shit of a horse. I\u2019m sorry, it\u2019s natural, but I cannot drink it.\u201d He doesn\u2019t have much time, either, for the \u201cbiodynamic blah blah blah. Is it yummy? Are you enjoying? Are you finishing the bottle? Will you drink it the day after or not? Will you feel tired or not? Will you feel like a butterfly the next day?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These are his desiderata, and his means of achieving them is by ensuring \u201cthat all the things that nature gave us are still in the wine.  The proteins, the vitamins, the yeasts, the bacteria, the skins: everything that nature gave us is still inside the wines.  They re digested. They help your system digest other things. The wines are full, not empty.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ll tell you how he achieves this fullness in a moment; first, though, a little back\u00ad ground. He and his wife Rotem established a Burgundy business (Lucien Le Moine) in the late 1990s \u2013 buying newly fermented wines from growers, raising them, then finally bottling them and selling them. If you think this is a straightforward matter, just wait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2006 or so, the couple, who work unaided, decided they wanted to own land.  Not in Burgundy, where it is dissuasively difficult to buy and where they would be competing with their growers and friends, but in Ch\u00e2teauneuf.  Why there?  I\u2019ll tell you that shortly, too.  \u201cImpossible,\u201d said friends, \u201cto buy good land in Ch\u00e2teauneuf.\u201d  Cue more original thinking (yes, it\u2019s coming).  Now they have 8.4 ha in Ch\u00e2teauneuf, and more   in C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne\u00adVillages. Winemaking rather than raising and finishing has given Mounir and Rotem even more opportunity to burrow back in time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let\u2019s return to the concept of \u2018full\u2019 wines.  \u201cWhen I arrived in Burgundy, I tried to guess how people made wine in the past. I have no knowledge; I have no pretension. I\u2019m patient.  I like to observe.\u201d  In particular, he noted the super\u00adcleanness of modern juices, pneumatically pressed followed by settling and racking; he noticed the great attention paid to reductive handling \u2026 and he noticed the premox problems the region had with white wines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It could not have been so in the past, he reasoned. Juices must have been more turbid, and given more exposure to air; wines must have remained with their lees during ageing, and been bottled later.  So, at no small risk, the couple set off in this direction. Radically: if one of their growers produces six casks of a top Premier Cru, they will buy two \u2013 but ask for the lees of all six.  The wine then remains on this profusion of lees for up to 36 months without racking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn my sixteen years at Lucien Le Moine, I have racked less than ten barrels, and rejected maybe four or five. And we have bottled more than 1,500 wines. We now raise 84 Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines every year with the totality of lees, with all the purity of nature.  We start ageing with around eight litres of lees per barrel.  By the end, only three are left. The other five are in your glass.\u201d  That, he says, is where the fullness comes from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the Rh\u00f4ne, he makes his own wines, and these methods have consequently gone much further.  For white wines (and he\u2019s enthusiastic about white Ch\u00e2teauneuf), he wants hard pressing (using a 1970s Vaslin) and hyper\u00adoxidation of the juice.  \u201cLet\u2019s go back to the roots. People used continuous presses, then sent the wine to the vat, and then they went off and did other things.  So that\u2019s what I do.  With a continuous press, you put in two tonnes of grapes and you end up with a cake which is like concrete.
Everthing else is in the juice, which is thick and viscous.\u201d And brown \u2013 because of exposure to the air. It then ferments slowly and gently on the lees. In spring 2011, Saouma remembers, other growers were bottling their 2010 whites. His 2009 white was still doing its malolactic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mounir Saouma in the vineyard. Credit: Andrew Jefford.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He tells me a story about that wine.  \u201cAt harvest time in 2016, two other winemakers rung me up and said they wanted to come to see me. I said \u2018Fine \u2013 come round.\u2019 \u2018We\u2019re interested in white wines,\u2019 they said.  \u2018We did a blind tasting \u2013 three bottles of white Ch\u00e2teauneuf, yours and ours. One bottle tasted fresh, but the other two seemed tired and old.\u2019  Both growers assumed the fresh wine was their own \u2013 but it was the Saouma wine. They asked him to explain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI can\u2019t,\u201d Saouma said, \u201cbut please turn around and look away. I will then show you something and you will tell me the answer.\u201d He gave them three glasses of wine. One was so brown he claims it looked like Guinness; another was pale, and the third one paler still. The brown one was his just\u00adpressed 2016 juice, and the other two cask samples of the 2015 and 2014 white \u2013 hard pressed and juice\u00adoxidised, then fermented and aged on lees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For me, he takes a sample of the white 2017 from the barrel. Using a pipette, he then blows through it so violently that it bubbles and froths. He then sucks it up into the pipette and dumps it down into the glass with more frothing and seething. Finally, he lets it be. It settles. At the end of the process, it is paler than it was to start with, and has an attractive scent of blossom: an astonishing demonstration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reds, of course, are a different matter.  \u201cI found myself putting the grapes in a tank,  no sulphur, no punching down, cold maceration, fourteen days, then fermentation for three weeks, no pumping over, then to barrel for three or four years; one has been five years in barrel, and never racked.\u201d  Eventually the journey back into the past led him to amphorae \u2013 unwaxed, of course. \u201cI grew up in a village in the mountains of Leba\u00ad non where we took an amphora made in the village to a spring to get the water.  That was the tool. No wax.  So I just put the clusters inside.  When it\u2019s full, we close it. We leave it for a year, untouched. When we open it, we pray. And it works: extreme purity.\u201d  He is also experimenting with fermenting single\u00advineyard wines in vessels containing washed galets roul\u00e9s taken from the vineyard from which the fruit has come; and he shows me different samples of his Omnia wine being aged in new foudres, in 500\u00adlitre casks and in concrete eggs. The experiments never stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But why Ch\u00e2teauneuf? \u201cI compare Grenache Noir to Pinot Noir. They are both compli\u00ad cated varieties with white juice, and they can both make superfine wines which  express the vineyard. Syrah tastes like Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc tastes like Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier tastes like Viognier, but Pinot Noir and Grenache taste like neutral fruit, like grapes. So do Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc. These neutral, empty varie\u00ad ties are the ambassadors of terroir. Because they are neutral, because they don\u2019t have their own personality, they pump everything around them.  If you want to send a mes\u00ad sage to someone, you don\u2019t send a talker. You send a neutral person who will just say what you want him to say.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The couple managed to acquire their nine parcels of land by working with the local SAFER (a government\u00adbacked sales intermediary in local land transactions) and then deliberately standing at the very end of the queue, behind the locals, taking only the parcels which no one else wanted.  To their delight, this often included parcels of land in high\u00adquality areas which were in a pitiful state, or which came with an obligation to buy poor quality land, buildings or superannuated machinery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The very first parcel they acquired, thus, was in Pignan \u2013 but it contained one\u00adthird of dead vines, had suffered chronic erosion and draining problems and came with stocks of low\u00adquality bulk wine. \u201cNobody wanted it because it was in a bad state but come on! It was Place Vend\u00f4me, the day after a Sunday market. OK, it\u2019s dirty everywhere but it\u2019s still Place Vend\u00f4me.\u201d The couple replaced the eroded land, redrained the whole vineyard and replanted it. \u201cNow we have two super hectares of Pignan, which is the king of Ch\u00e2teauneuf, the best terroir for finesse, facing north.  When you are exposed north in Ch\u00e2teauneuf you are the luckiest person in the world because the Mistral will be crossing your vineyard more than 100 days a year, making you super maturity but keeping you a lot of vivacity, a lot of freshness.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The limestone soils of Esquiran. Credit: Andrew Jefford.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They also now have land in high\u00adsited La Pointue; in the astonishing limestone\u00adsoiled Esquiran \u201cwhere you walk on pieces of yoghurt\u201d; at Pierre Redon; in the galets roul\u00e9s of La Bigote, and indeed in all of the five villages with land in the appellation.  \u201cCh\u00e2\u00ad teauneuf du Pape is the biggest mosaic in French wine,\u201d says Saouma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The aim behind his Omnia wine is to convey the mosaic itself (five villages, nine soil types and thirteen varieties), whereas the amphora single\u00adsite wines are sold unblended (as a collection), and the Arioso is made from the old\u00advine material in Pignan alone. Le Petit Livre de A.M.Bach (Bach\u2019s St John Passion was playing in the cellar when I called) is a free\u00adrun\u00adonly version of Arioso bottled exclusively in magnums; the white wine is called Magis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Best value of all, though, may be the Inopia, which comes from the \u2018Clos Saouma\u2019 vineyards sited in the C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne\u00adVillages zone of Vieux Bouigard near Orange, surrounding the winery.  The couple have nine hectares planted in this less expensive land \u2013 yet its soil potential is outstanding (clay over deep beds of river\u00adrolled pebbles), and the wines \u2013 one third white, two thirds red \u2013 are made according to the same lees\u00ad nourished,  unhurried  principles.A taste of Saouma Rh\u00f4nes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arioso in its vineyard of origin in Pignan. Credit: Andrew Jefford.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Inopia, C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne\u00adVillages Blanc, 2014<\/strong>
This wine\u2019s majority component of Grenache Blanc is complemented by Bourboulenc, Marsanne and Roussanne; like its red counterpart, it sees 18 months on lees in both 500\u00adl casks and concrete eggs (though not foudres). There\u2019s great aromatic presence here: milled grains and grain dust, crushed aniseed and fennel and apricot juice, too. On the palate, the wine is supple, soft, glycerous and rich, the sweet fruits blended with something faintly salty and green, a smack of seaweed. Deep, firm, long: clearly over\u00adachieving white Rh\u00f4ne. 92 (14%)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Inopia, C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne\u00adVillages Rouge, 2014<\/strong>
This blend of Grenache with smaller amounts of Mourv\u00e8dre, Counoise, Cinsault and Syrah, given 18 months\u2019 ageing on lees in 500\u00adl casks as well as foudre and concrete eggs has ample sweet spice, herb and aniseed scents. After this copious aromatic charm, the wine\u2019s volume, command and sheer authority comes as a shock. Stony finesse underpins the volume and weight of fruit.  \u201cWe want to be out on the boundary between serious and enjoyable,\u201d says Saouma. The serious, of course, has to be enjoyable too. This is. 91 (14%)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Magis, Ch\u00e2teauneuf du Pape Blanc, 2014<\/strong>
Light gold in colour, with a rich, mealy yet pretty scent of forest mushrooms, flowers and crushed seeds.  The palate is soft, chewy, banquet\u00adlike and gratifying, full of late\u00ad summer allusions. This generous, dense and reverberative mouthful has a gathered force which contrives to suggest freshness despite the rich, layered style. A white Ch\u00e2\u00ad teauneuf entirely unafraid of its own nature.  94 (14%)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Magis barrel sample, Ch\u00e2teauneuf du Pape Blanc, 2016<\/strong>
This wine is work in progress \u2013 but everything suggests that it will be a majestic Magis. At this stage, it is a kind of engine of blossom, hurling spring\u00adfresh fruit\u00adtree petals out in every direction. On the palate, it is hyper\u00adexpressive and articulate; blos\u00ad somy for now, but with plenty of marrow packing its bones, too. Look out for this exceptionally promising wine in a year or two. [96] 95\u00ad97
Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Omnia barrel samples, Ch\u00e2teauneuf du Pape Rouge, 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I had the chance to look at three different components for this wine: samples from a concrete egg (powerful and explosive fruits and grainy textures), from 500\u00adl cask (dryer, firmer and more \u2018serious\u2019) and from foudre (intense and juicy, with a just\u00ad pressed freshness). The fruit mass, drama and power is hugely impressive here, but there\u2019s a stony residuum, too: surely a great Omnia in the making. [95] 94\u00ad96<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Arioso, Ch\u00e2teauneuf du Pape Rouge, 2014<\/strong>
In Burgundy, Mounir Saouma is not a big fan of red wines made with stems, but he says he loves the effect of stems on old\u00advine Grenache in Ch\u00e2teauneuf (though other red varieties are destemmed).  This pale wine is fresh, graceful and lifted: a haunting combination of sweet woodland strawberry fragrance with something much stonier, denser and meatier. The 36 months on lees have left the wine textured, juicy, full and savourous \u2013 indeed grippy under analysis, yet the tannins are so well\u00adclad that they don\u2019t perturb.  It\u2019s an ample, searching and fine red wine, proving that width and finesse can go together in Ch\u00e2teauneuf. 95 (15.5%)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Le Petit Livre de A.M.Bach Barrel Sample, Ch\u00e2\u00ad teauneuf du Pape Rouge, 2014<\/strong>
There\u2019s still two years of ageing to go for this wine \u2013 and it\u2019s had four years on its lees already, without racking. For the time being, it seemed to be in a quiet stage, gently nourishing, entirely unreductive, purring gently, watching a rain of strawberry fall
beyond the window pane. On the palate, it is complete, refined, resolved, its tannins fine\u00admilled by comparison with the more sinewy Arioso, its quiet fruits poised, feline and graceful.  (93) 92\u00ad94<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Andrew Jefford meets the Burgundy and Ch\u00e2teauneuf specialist Mounir Saouma… The Saouma cellar at Vieux Bouigard near Orange. Credit: Andrew Jefford \u201cI was born in 1967. That\u2019s what it says on the paper. But in reality I was born in 1867. They just put me in the Frigidaire and took me out again 100 years […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":223,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"single-narrow-centered","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nFullness of Wine - Lucien Le Moine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Fullness of Wine - Lucien Le Moine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Andrew Jefford meets the Burgundy and Ch\u00e2teauneuf specialist Mounir Saouma… The Saouma cellar at Vieux Bouigard near Orange. 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Credit: Andrew Jefford \u201cI was born in 1967. That\u2019s what it says on the paper. But in reality I was born in 1867. 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